
久し振りに紀行文を。夏休みはモンゴルかドバイを検討していたがスケジュールや予算などの都合でインドにすることに。デリー・ジャイプール・アグラを周回する初心者向け?のツアーを申し込む。今回はじめて海外旅行するにあたってビザを申請することになったが、いろいろ面倒くさいですねあれ。書き直しが生じて申請所に2度足を運ぶことになったよ。
飛行機の時間がおねむの時間と重なってたので機内では「ジャングル・ブック」だけを観る。あの話のキモって、(ネタバレ)最後にモーグリが人間の世界に帰っていくことなのではないのか?ああいう終わり方でいいの?
デリーに深夜について次の日に観光。最初に行ったのがでっかい塔のクトゥブ・ミナール。

70メートルほどの高さで、当初はもっと高かったのが落雷などでいまの高さになったのだとか、中には入れないものの、尖塔などが好きなので満足。
それから行ったフユマーン廟もまあまあ。ツアーの一環として輪タクにも乗りましたが、明らかに体力不足な初老のオッサンが立ち漕ぎしながら渋滞のなかを走るものだから、下手な遊園地のアトラクションよりもずっと身の危険を感じたぞ。インドってどうも短い距離なら道路での逆走が許容されているらしく、他の車ばかりか自分たちの乗ったバスも逆走を始めた時は血の気が引きましたね。
昼食はカレー。つうか旅行中はずっとカレー。美味くも不味くもないのだけど、一日中ずっと食べてるとさすがに飽きました。サモサが食べたかったけど出てこなかったな。現地では大丈夫で帰国したとたんに腹を壊したけど、食事のせいなのか疲労のせいなのかは不明。
あとはバスのなかからインド門などを眺めながらジャイプールに移動。高速道路はコンテナを積んだトラックで渋滞していて、たまに路肩に出て悪路を走りながら(ここにも逆走車あり)ひたすら道を走るという、ちょっと「デス・ロード」っぽい展開でした。
ジャイプールはホテルがいちばん綺麗だったな。次の日はアンベール城に向かい、象に乗って丘の上へと運ばれることに。象に触れたり乗ったりするのって長年の夢でしたが、よく考えてみれば人間に搾取されている象に乗っかっているわけで、微妙な罪悪感を抱いてしまった。そして象の背中は揺れる揺れる。
アンベール城は鏡や宝石で飾られた部屋などもあって美しかった。インドはどの城や宮殿もやたら広く、王族がふんだんな財産と人力をかけて建設したことがよく伺える。この次に行った風の宮殿も広くて見晴らしが良かったですよ。
あとは王が作った天文施設のジャンタルマンタル。どことなくJG・バラードの小説を彷彿させるような幾何学的な建造物が立ち並ぶ土地のなかには20秒刻みで時を計れる日時計なんてのもあって圧巻でした。でも当然みんな太陽が出てないと使えないわけで、雨季などでは無用の長物になるんだろうか。

それからまた長時間バスに乗ってアグラへ。途中でファテープル・シークリーに寄る。ここも山の上に建設されたにしては広大な宮殿でした。
なお格安ツアーなのでショッピングの立ち寄りが何度か設けられていて、個人的には宝石とか大理石とか服飾に興味がないのでちょっとしんどかったけど、他のツアー客、特に女性はいろいろ買われてましたね。今回は発展途上国(失礼)へのツアーのせいか、俺のように一人参加している客が比較的多かったような。それ以外の客も多くは旅慣れている感じで、そうでなくて空気の読めない人が一人でもいるとね、みんなの士気がどっと下がりますので、みなさんもツアーに参加するときは気配りしましょう。
3日目はいよいよタージマハール観光。あいにく片側が修復中だったが、逆に足場が組まれてることで建物のスケールがわかって良かったかも。内部の霊廟は写真撮影禁止のはずなのだがみんな平気でフラッシュ焚いてまして、警備員が激昂してました。大理石の飾りも美しく、やはり見事な建物でしたよ。

最後はアグラ城に。ここもデカい。インド軍が使っていて建物の4分の3は入れないというにもかかわらずデカかった。タージマハールを立てた王様が息子によってここに幽閉され、タージマハールを眺めながら死んでいった、というのが歴史を感じさせますね。
それからまたバスに乗ってデリー空港へ。汗と砂で汚れてたので、成田空港よりも高くついたけどプレミアムラウンジでシャワーを浴びてリフレッシュ。おかげで帰りのフライトはよく眠れました。
3泊5日で1日6時間以上はバスに乗っているという強行軍だったので、悠久の時を感じる暇もない忙しい旅だったけど、それでもいい経験にはなりましたね。ただしクセのある国なので、海外旅行の初心者向けではないかも。物乞いも多いしゴミと瓦礫が散乱しているし、経済的な発展が見込まれているとはいえ、まだまだ課題が多い国ではあるな、と思ってしまう。学校に行ってるべき幼い子供が目の前で芸を披露し始めて小銭をねだったりするのを見るとね、どうすればいいのか困惑してしまうのよ。とはいえ思ったよりも危険は感じなくて、むしろ人々は陽気で親切な印象を受けました。空港のトイレで歯を磨いてたら掃除の人がペーパータオル持ってきてくれたし。いろんな国を訪れるたびに感じますけどね、結局いちばん印象に残るのって自然や建物でなく、その国の人にどう接されたですからね。優しく人に対応してもらえればその国に良い印象を抱くようになるし、その逆もまたしかり。というわけで日本に来ている観光客にもみなさん優しく対応してあげましょう。
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